As the holidays approach, the last thing a homeowner wants to be concerned with are problems that could have been easily prevented. As you make your holiday list, please add these "to do" items:
1. Change batteries in all smoke detectors. If you find one is not operational, replace immediately.
2. Check all GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruper) receptacles. This is easily performed by hitting "Test" then "Reset". If it fails to reset, call in a contractor to troubleshoot the problem.
3. Make sure gutter systems (eaves, troughs and downspouts) are clean and clear. Leaves and other fallen debris can wreak havoc on your gutter systems in a heavy rain or snowfall. If you are not comfortable working at heights, please call your trusted contractor to clean and clear the gutters for you.
4. Get your roof inspected. In the mid-atlantic region, we oftentimes experience extreme winters. Have a professional inspect your roof for possible damage, and repair it or replace it immediately.
5. Clean the lint trap on your dryer, and also clean out the metal ductwork that helps ventilate the dryer. Lint build up can quickly start a fire.
6. Bring any exterior hoses inside to prevent damage. If your house is so equipped, shut off exterior hose bibs (valves) and drain any remaining water. This will eliminate the possibility of a frozen and/or burst pipe.
7. Familiarize yourself on how to shut off the utilities to the house in the event of an accident. This includes the water valve, electric panel, and gas valve (if applicable).
8. If you have an operational fire place, have it cleaned and inspected prior to using.
9. Inspect any trees surrounding your house that may have dead, damaged or poorly located limbs and branches. Trim back accordingly (or consult a professional) to avoid any storm damage from falling trees and such.
10. Have your heating unit inspected and serviced. Hire a HVAC contractor to inspect your system, make any necessary repairs and perform routine service. This will extend the life of your unit as well as prevent mid-winter breakdowns.
Have a safe and enjoyable holiday season and check back often for new blog entries.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Hiring The Right Contractor!
You are finally ready to hire a contractor?!
Signing perhaps tens of thousands of dollars of your hard earned money over to an expert in home improvement?
I'll bet that thought alone can make your stomach queasy, so why trust it to just anyone? It seems everyone has their own story of remodeling hell (or at least knows someone who has one). Oh, you never heard of remodeling hell? That's when the supposed quick and easy $5,000.00 remodel project has turned into $15,000.00 and taken 4 times as long as you expected, and 6 times as long as the contractor promised!
So how do you figure out who to hire? A google search for "hiring a contractor" comes up with over 756,000 hits. I have no desire to read through the redundant advice of thousands of expert websites telling me to check references, check insurance and licensing, contact the BBB and GET THREE BIDS!
Am I saying that checking references is a bad idea? Of course not.
Am I saying that checking insurance is a bad idea? Why, no!
Am I saying that checking licensing is a bad idea? Heck, no.
Contact the BBB? Sure, but make sure you read how they rate businesses.
Am I saying that getting three bids is a bad idea? YOU BET I AM!
The three bid process is nothing more than price shopping (and throat slashing) at it's worst form.
Why do I say this? Because more times than not people will go with the lowest price, without comparing the bids in an apples to apples comparison. You have to ask yourself why is he the lowest bid? Lack of insurance, or underinsured? Use of uninsured subcontractors as so-called employees? Not paying taxes? Substandard materials and workmanship? I could go on and on.
If you found out you needed open heart surgery, would you contact 3 heart surgeons and go with the lowest price? Absolutely not? Why, because it is your own health! So why do it with your home - your single most expensive investment in your entire lifetime!
At the same time, I am not saying that the highest bid will rule out all of the problems of the low-ball bidder. They can have great salespeople and tactics, but produce an inferior product.
So, you may be asking yourself, well, Mark, what ARE you suggesting?
Research, research, research! Though it may seem like a lot of legwork and a huge headache, it virtually eliminates your chances of entering into a remodeling hell. Here is what I suggest:
1. Ask friends, neighbors, relatives who has performed work for them recently.
2. Ask the contractor for references of people the contractor has performed similar work for. Just because your neighbor had Joe Pick-up Truck put a storm door on his porch does not necessarily mean he is qualified to add a 2nd story master suite addition.
3. Ask the references, would you hire the contractor again?
4. Visit the contractor's website. In this day and age most any reputable contractor should have a web presence with project photos, testimonials, etc.
5. Ask to see current certificates of Liability Insurance and Workers' Compensation (if applicable).
6. Check to see if the contractor is licensed. Here in Pennsylvania, we have no licensing, but a state-wide registration that houses information on the contractor such as location, website, insurance coverage and any legal judgements.
After all this legwork and research, your decision may be clear as day on who to hire. It also may come down to simply a feeling of being comfortable with the contractor. Remember, this is a person who could potentially spend months inside your home, it should be important that you feel comfortable with them from the start.
Not once in here did I mention price as a deciding factor.
Because if you are deciding on price alone you will no doubt be burned at some point.
History can oftentimes be a great teacher. And as Ben Franklin once said "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten."
So, folks, forget the 3 bids, and simply comparing price, look at the value added, quality and reputation when hiring a contractor.
Signing perhaps tens of thousands of dollars of your hard earned money over to an expert in home improvement?
I'll bet that thought alone can make your stomach queasy, so why trust it to just anyone? It seems everyone has their own story of remodeling hell (or at least knows someone who has one). Oh, you never heard of remodeling hell? That's when the supposed quick and easy $5,000.00 remodel project has turned into $15,000.00 and taken 4 times as long as you expected, and 6 times as long as the contractor promised!
So how do you figure out who to hire? A google search for "hiring a contractor" comes up with over 756,000 hits. I have no desire to read through the redundant advice of thousands of expert websites telling me to check references, check insurance and licensing, contact the BBB and GET THREE BIDS!
Am I saying that checking references is a bad idea? Of course not.
Am I saying that checking insurance is a bad idea? Why, no!
Am I saying that checking licensing is a bad idea? Heck, no.
Contact the BBB? Sure, but make sure you read how they rate businesses.
Am I saying that getting three bids is a bad idea? YOU BET I AM!
The three bid process is nothing more than price shopping (and throat slashing) at it's worst form.
Why do I say this? Because more times than not people will go with the lowest price, without comparing the bids in an apples to apples comparison. You have to ask yourself why is he the lowest bid? Lack of insurance, or underinsured? Use of uninsured subcontractors as so-called employees? Not paying taxes? Substandard materials and workmanship? I could go on and on.
If you found out you needed open heart surgery, would you contact 3 heart surgeons and go with the lowest price? Absolutely not? Why, because it is your own health! So why do it with your home - your single most expensive investment in your entire lifetime!
At the same time, I am not saying that the highest bid will rule out all of the problems of the low-ball bidder. They can have great salespeople and tactics, but produce an inferior product.
So, you may be asking yourself, well, Mark, what ARE you suggesting?
Research, research, research! Though it may seem like a lot of legwork and a huge headache, it virtually eliminates your chances of entering into a remodeling hell. Here is what I suggest:
1. Ask friends, neighbors, relatives who has performed work for them recently.
2. Ask the contractor for references of people the contractor has performed similar work for. Just because your neighbor had Joe Pick-up Truck put a storm door on his porch does not necessarily mean he is qualified to add a 2nd story master suite addition.
3. Ask the references, would you hire the contractor again?
4. Visit the contractor's website. In this day and age most any reputable contractor should have a web presence with project photos, testimonials, etc.
5. Ask to see current certificates of Liability Insurance and Workers' Compensation (if applicable).
6. Check to see if the contractor is licensed. Here in Pennsylvania, we have no licensing, but a state-wide registration that houses information on the contractor such as location, website, insurance coverage and any legal judgements.
After all this legwork and research, your decision may be clear as day on who to hire. It also may come down to simply a feeling of being comfortable with the contractor. Remember, this is a person who could potentially spend months inside your home, it should be important that you feel comfortable with them from the start.
Not once in here did I mention price as a deciding factor.
Because if you are deciding on price alone you will no doubt be burned at some point.
History can oftentimes be a great teacher. And as Ben Franklin once said "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten."
So, folks, forget the 3 bids, and simply comparing price, look at the value added, quality and reputation when hiring a contractor.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
EPA, Lead Paint, Renovating and You!
On April 22, of 2010, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued a rule requiring any and all contractors performing "renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based pain in homes built before 1978 to be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination." Officially, it is known as the EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting rule or RRP.
You can see the full EPA rule by clicking here.
The EPA's new RRP rule affects paid renovation contractors who work in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities. Under the rule, "child occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age 6 are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than 6 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less than 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior. Window replacement is not a minor maintenance or repair."
Contractors who perform work in pre-1978 housing that tests positive for lead-based paint must go through an 8 hour Lead Renovator program and certify their firm with the EPA. Both the Lead Renovator certificate and EPA certification is good for 5 years.
Prior to starting any work, your contractor should give you a copy of the EPA's Lead-Safe Certified Guide to Renovate Right.
Basically, any contractor performing work in a home that has tested positive for lead based paint should follow three simple work procedures:
1. Contain the work area.
2. Minimize dust.
3. Clean up thoroughly.
Obviously, it is not that simple, and in future blog entries we will delve into each aspect further including how lead can affect you, the likelihood of lead being in your home, how to test for lead, how to renovate safely, how to clean-up, and the associated costs with all these regulations.
Until then, if you would like to read more about the Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, you can go to the EPA's site.
You can see the full EPA rule by clicking here.
The EPA's new RRP rule affects paid renovation contractors who work in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities. Under the rule, "child occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age 6 are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than 6 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less than 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior. Window replacement is not a minor maintenance or repair."
Contractors who perform work in pre-1978 housing that tests positive for lead-based paint must go through an 8 hour Lead Renovator program and certify their firm with the EPA. Both the Lead Renovator certificate and EPA certification is good for 5 years.
Prior to starting any work, your contractor should give you a copy of the EPA's Lead-Safe Certified Guide to Renovate Right.
Basically, any contractor performing work in a home that has tested positive for lead based paint should follow three simple work procedures:
1. Contain the work area.
2. Minimize dust.
3. Clean up thoroughly.
Obviously, it is not that simple, and in future blog entries we will delve into each aspect further including how lead can affect you, the likelihood of lead being in your home, how to test for lead, how to renovate safely, how to clean-up, and the associated costs with all these regulations.
Until then, if you would like to read more about the Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, you can go to the EPA's site.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Common Construction Terms
As the first "official" blog I thought it would be beneficial to define some industry specific terms that will help you be on the same wavelenth when you talk with your home remodeling professional:
1. General Contractor - this is generally the person or company in charge of the whole project. Responsible for plans, budgets, materials, subcontractors, etc. Typically a general contractor, or simply contractor, will perform most of the work themselves (or with their crew) with the exception of skill-specific trades such as plumbing, electrical, etc. Some contractors choose to do more work themselves if they have the relevant experience, proven finished product, insurance and licensing (where necessary). Sometimes referred to as a "GC".
2. Subcontractor - an individual, trade specific, worker or company such as a plumber, electrician, roofer, mason, etc. Sometimes referred to as a "sub".
3. Demo - this is short for demolition, meaning the complete removal of a certain aspect of the house (a kitchen demo, etc.)
4. Level - a perfectly straight, parallel surface on a horizontal plane. Such as leveling a floor or setting kitchen cabinets to be level.
5. Plumb - a perfectly straight, parallel surface on a vertical plane. Such as making a fence post plumb or making a deck railing plumb. Oftentimes, level is used interchangeably with this term.
6. Square - a perfect 90 degree angle, a true perpendicular intersection. Windows, doors and foundations all need to be square so not only do they operate properly but look astethically pleasing.
7. Rough-in - this is generally the work that goes on behind the walls. Rough carpentry is framing the walls, window and door openings, etc. Rough plumbing and electrical is routing all the necessary water and drain lines, as well as power lines, that will be enclosed by drywall, flooring, etc.
8. Finish or Trim-Out - this is when drywall is installed, windows and doors are installed and trimmed out. Plumbing fixtures and electrical fixtures are hooked up and ready to use. Final flooring goes in, cabinets and counters are installed, and wallcoverings are applied.
9. R-Value - a measure of thermal resistance associated with insulation. The higher the R-Value, the more effective the insulation.
10. HVAC - stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. The tradesmen that services your heating and cooling system is often referred to as an HVAC contractor.
11. Framing - the structural wood (or sometimes metal) elements of the home that make up the walls, floors, ceilings, roof, etc.
12. Stud - a framing member specifically used for wall support. Often a 2x4 or 2x6.
13. Joists - a framing member specifically used for floor or ceiling support, which supports the subfloor and flooring, and possibly drywall (in the case of a ceiling).
14. Rafter - a framing member directly supporting the roof, roof sheathing and shingles. It usually follows the angle (or pitch) of the roof.
15. Sheathing - plywood, OSB or other sheet goods used on exterior walls and roofs. In older construction these may have been single boards.
16. Truss - a manufactured wood framing member, often in the form of a large triangle, used to form the ceiling and roof of a home.
17. Pressure Treated - this is a type of lumber chemically treated to be water resistant. Often used on exterior decks, or in areas with high moisture/humidity.
18. Load Bearing Wall - a wall that is supporting weight of the structure above such as floor joists or roof rafters.
19. Beam - a horizontal framing member, often supporting a roof or floor span.
20. Post - a vertical framing member, often installed to carry a beam.
These 20 terms were just a preview into the various aspects of the construction glossary. There is simply not enough time in the day to define terms home improvement professionals use on a daily basis. From time to time, we will write about common construction terms as it relates to more specific products and projects (such as windows, doors, kitchens, bathrooms, etc.)
If there is a term that you would like to know the meaning of, or see explained on our blog, please feel free to email or post a comment.
1. General Contractor - this is generally the person or company in charge of the whole project. Responsible for plans, budgets, materials, subcontractors, etc. Typically a general contractor, or simply contractor, will perform most of the work themselves (or with their crew) with the exception of skill-specific trades such as plumbing, electrical, etc. Some contractors choose to do more work themselves if they have the relevant experience, proven finished product, insurance and licensing (where necessary). Sometimes referred to as a "GC".
2. Subcontractor - an individual, trade specific, worker or company such as a plumber, electrician, roofer, mason, etc. Sometimes referred to as a "sub".
3. Demo - this is short for demolition, meaning the complete removal of a certain aspect of the house (a kitchen demo, etc.)
4. Level - a perfectly straight, parallel surface on a horizontal plane. Such as leveling a floor or setting kitchen cabinets to be level.
5. Plumb - a perfectly straight, parallel surface on a vertical plane. Such as making a fence post plumb or making a deck railing plumb. Oftentimes, level is used interchangeably with this term.
6. Square - a perfect 90 degree angle, a true perpendicular intersection. Windows, doors and foundations all need to be square so not only do they operate properly but look astethically pleasing.
7. Rough-in - this is generally the work that goes on behind the walls. Rough carpentry is framing the walls, window and door openings, etc. Rough plumbing and electrical is routing all the necessary water and drain lines, as well as power lines, that will be enclosed by drywall, flooring, etc.
8. Finish or Trim-Out - this is when drywall is installed, windows and doors are installed and trimmed out. Plumbing fixtures and electrical fixtures are hooked up and ready to use. Final flooring goes in, cabinets and counters are installed, and wallcoverings are applied.
9. R-Value - a measure of thermal resistance associated with insulation. The higher the R-Value, the more effective the insulation.
10. HVAC - stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. The tradesmen that services your heating and cooling system is often referred to as an HVAC contractor.
11. Framing - the structural wood (or sometimes metal) elements of the home that make up the walls, floors, ceilings, roof, etc.
12. Stud - a framing member specifically used for wall support. Often a 2x4 or 2x6.
13. Joists - a framing member specifically used for floor or ceiling support, which supports the subfloor and flooring, and possibly drywall (in the case of a ceiling).
14. Rafter - a framing member directly supporting the roof, roof sheathing and shingles. It usually follows the angle (or pitch) of the roof.
15. Sheathing - plywood, OSB or other sheet goods used on exterior walls and roofs. In older construction these may have been single boards.
16. Truss - a manufactured wood framing member, often in the form of a large triangle, used to form the ceiling and roof of a home.
17. Pressure Treated - this is a type of lumber chemically treated to be water resistant. Often used on exterior decks, or in areas with high moisture/humidity.
18. Load Bearing Wall - a wall that is supporting weight of the structure above such as floor joists or roof rafters.
19. Beam - a horizontal framing member, often supporting a roof or floor span.
20. Post - a vertical framing member, often installed to carry a beam.
These 20 terms were just a preview into the various aspects of the construction glossary. There is simply not enough time in the day to define terms home improvement professionals use on a daily basis. From time to time, we will write about common construction terms as it relates to more specific products and projects (such as windows, doors, kitchens, bathrooms, etc.)
If there is a term that you would like to know the meaning of, or see explained on our blog, please feel free to email or post a comment.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Our New Blog!
Cooke Carpentry & Construction, LLC has entered the world of blogging!!!
Periodically, we will be posting information and tips about home remodeling, home maintenance and any news relative to the residential construction industry.
Additionally, we welcome feedback, questions and contributions!
Thanks for reading and check back often!!
Periodically, we will be posting information and tips about home remodeling, home maintenance and any news relative to the residential construction industry.
Additionally, we welcome feedback, questions and contributions!
Thanks for reading and check back often!!
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